Retinoids are some of the most widely used and studied ingredients in the skin care field. They have shown to reduce wrinkles, improve photoaged skin, smooth skin texture and even out skin tone. However, the use of retinoids comes with its challenges. One of the main concerns is the occurrence of “retinoid reactions” that include itching, burning, and redness, among others.

Additionally, new regulations have been implemented to limit the concentration of retinol in skincare products. Retinol has been added to annex III/376 of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. This ingredient is now restricted up to 0.05% in body lotions and up to 0.3% in other leave-on and rinse-off products. In addition, cosmetic products containing Retinol must include mandatory labelling regarding the daily intake of Vitamin A.

While these regulations aim to ensure safety, brands are faced with the challenge of maintaining product efficacy.

Enter Stevisse™ advanced botanical ingredient, an innovative solution developed by Lubrizol scientists. The active ingredient is obtained through Phenobio™ subcritical water extraction of organic stevia leaves, enriching the ingredient with a higher level of bioactives. This is also the first active ingredient from Lubrizol where the entire supply chain can be fully traced by blockchain. This active ingredient offers retinoid-like benefits without causing its adverse side effects.

Testing reveals key Advantages of Stevisse™ advanced botanical ingredient for skin care

Testing has revealed impressive advantages of Stevisse™ advanced botanical ingredient for skin care. In vitro studies comparing the active ingredient with retinoic acid, the more bioactive form of retinol, demonstrated that Stevisse™ advanced botanical ingredient mimics the biological activity of retinoids. It stimulates the expression of genes involved in skin regeneration and regulated protein synthesis, preserving the dermis and providing a rejuvenating effect.

While Stevisse™ advanced botanical ingredient delivered the same benefits as retinoids, it also showed to be gentler, as it minimized the expression of the pro-inflammatory PTGS2 gene involved in a skin inflammation pathway, in vitro.

In vivo tests showed impressive clinical results, too. Stevisse™ advanced botanical ingredient reduced wrinkle area by 87.3% and wrinkle length by 85.3%. It also delivered a more even and uniform tone while minimizing the appearance of dark spots.

Stevisse™ advanced botanical ingredient can be used to replace retinol without compromising its effectiveness, becoming a great option for skin care products manufacturers.

Overcoming the challenges of Retinol with Stevisse™ advanced botanical ingredient from Lubrizol