Personal Care

Technical Papers and Posters

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  • Innovative Solutions For The Formulation Of Low pH Skin Care Systems

    Innovative Solutions For The Formulation Of Low pH Skin Care Systems

    Marie Ollagnier, Elena Canadas, Mary Hazuda

    In-Cosmetics Show Catalog 2013, April 2013

    Carbopol® Ultrez 30 Polymer

    Creating effective low pH skin care products that are not disruptive to the skin’s natural defence and rejuvenation processes can present many challenges to formulators. Lubrizol, Lipotec and Active Organics, three industry leaders providing specialty ingredients for personal care products, have collaborated to provide this informative guide with innovative solutions for the formulation of low pH skin care systems.

  • Make-it-Possible-Poster

    POSTER: Make it Possible. Carbopol Ultrez 30 Polymer

    Lubrizol

    PCHi China 2013, 3/1/2013

    Carbopol® Ultrez 30 Polymer

    Balancing the rheology characteristics, aesthetic properties and stabilization of skin care systems featuring anti-aging and blemish-fighting actives is no longer a challenge with Lubrizol’s next generation carbomer. NEW Carbopol® Ultrez 30 polymer offers improved electrolyte tolerance, superior thickening performance in a broader pH range, and rich distinct sensory without compromising the efficacy of your formulations.

  • Merquat Conditioning Polymers Poster

    POSTER: Make It Perform. Merquat™ Conditioning Polymers in Soap Bars Help Enhance Foam Quality and Stability

    Lubrizol

    HPCi India 2013, 3/1/2013

    Merquat™ PLUS 3330 PolymerMerquat™ 100 Polymer

    Merquat™ conditioning polymers help enhance foam quality, foam stability, skin conditioning afterfeel and fragrance retention without impacting soap bar hardness, mush or cracking.

  • Novemer EC-2 Poster

    POSTER: Make It Brighter. Novemer EC-2 Polymer for Formulating Aesthetically Pleasing Fairness Creams

    Lubrizol

    HPCi India 2013, 2/1/2013

    Novemer™ EC-2 Polymer

    There are many options for formulators to deliver skin whitening systems that delight consumers and encourage repeat use. However, there are also significant challenges to achieving the right product aesthetics to reach local sensory targets. Some functional ingredients can help formulators achieve their formulating goals without negatively impacting activity or sensory. Novemer EC-2 polymer is a multifunctional, easy-to-use synthetic polymer based on acrylate chemistry offering improved efficiency as a thickener, stabilizer and emulsifier, with unique sensory properties and improved electrolyte tolerance.

  • Formulating for Electrolyte Resistance in Conjunction With Sensory Appeal

    Formulating for Electrolyte Resistance in Conjunction With Sensory Appeal

    Marie Ollagnier, Gordon Hsu, Bryan Moran and Laure Buquen

    Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine, December 2012

    Novemer™ EC-2 Polymer

    Skin care formulations often are enriched with high levels of electrolytic ingredients for various skin benefits. However, these have a negative impact on the viscosity, texture and stability of a system. Described in this article is a multifunctional polymer that is designed to provide excellent electrolyte resistance along with a pleasant sensory profile, as will be shown.

  • Pemulen Polymeric Emulsifiers Poster

    POSTER: Make it Simple. Pemulen™ Polymeric Emulsifiers - Solutions to Simplify the Formulation of Oil-in-Water Emulsions

    Lubrizol

    CosmetAgora, Deember 2012

    Pemulen™ TR-1 Polymeric EmulsifierPemulen™ TR-2 Polymeric Emulsifier

    Pemulen™ polymeric emulsifiers are high molecular weight crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic C10-30 alkyl acrylate co-monomer. They are versatile non-ethoxylated polymers designed to create stable and mild oil-in-water emulsions at low use levels.

  • Make-it-Billowy-Poster

    POSTER: Make it Billowy - Surfactants

    Lubrizol

    General, 11/1/2012

    Chemonic™ SI-7 SurfactantChemoryl™ LB-30 SurfactantChemonic™ LI-3 SurfactantChemoryl™ SFB-10SK Surfactant BlendChemccinate™ LSC-K SurfactantChembetaine™ ACB SurfactantSulfochem™ CS-BZ SurfactantSulfochem™ B-10AF Surfactant Blend

    Superior Flash Foam, Feel and Appearance for Sulfate or Amide-free Cleansing Solutions.

  • Formulating High Performance Sun Care Products

    Formulating High Performance Sun Care Products

    M. Boo, C. He, E. De Maesscgalck, M. Ollagnier

    Happi Magazine, September 2012

    Pemulen™ TR-2 Polymeric Emulsifier

    The use of a polymeric emulsifier such as acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer provides excellent emulsification and stability performance in drip-resistant broad spectrum low viscosity sun care formulations, according to Lubrizol researchers.

  • Beauty is in the Eye of the Trendsetter

    Beauty is in the Eye of the Trendsetter

    M. Ollagnier, J. Feitosa

    GCI Magazine, September 2012

    The definition of beauty evolves constantly. Changing lifestyles, values and trends continuously influence consumer decisions and in today's globalized and digitized marketplace, beauty brands must understand these trends to offer products that meet a world of needs.

  • Antiperspirant Deodorant Poster

    POSTER: PPG-20 Methyl Glucoside Ether for Reducing White Stain Transfer in Antiperspirant and Deodorant (AP/DEO) Formulations

    Erica Navarro, Luciana Ferra, Luciene Bastos, Joseph Zellia

    Skin and Formulation - 4th Symposium, 6/1/2012

    Glucam™ P-20 Humectant

    As the global market for antiperspirant and deodorant products (AP/DEO) is growing, the consumer requirements are increasing. An effective AP/DEO should not only safely and effectively reduce odor, but it must also show excellent sensorial properties and reduce white stains and marks on both clothes and skin. Understanding the interplay between the polymer and surfactants is important since the polymer may affect the rheology and performance of personal care cleansing formulations.

  • Radiant-Skin-Poster

    POSTER: Radiant Skin

    Lubrizol

    SCC Annual Meeting, 12/1/2011

    Novemer™ EC-2 Polymer

    New multifunctional liquid polymer for high performance skin care systems

  • Incredible-Style-Poster

    POSTER: Incredible Style

    Lubrizol

    SCC Annual Meeting, 12/1/2011

    Fixate™ Freestyle PolymerFixate™ Design Polymer

    Contemporary styling solutions for reduced complexity, greater formulating flexibility and superior consumer experience

  • Refreshing Cleansing Poster

    POSTER: Refreshing Cleansing

    Lubrizol

    SCC Annual Meeting, 12/1/2011

    Carbopol® Aqua SF-2 PolymerNovethix™ L-10 PolymerGlucamate™ LT Thickener

    Emerging Trends are Changing the Way Formulators Think About and Formulate Surfactant Cleansing Products

  • Gorgeous Hair Poster

    POSTER: Gorgeous Hair

    Lubrizol

    SCC Annual Meeting, 12/1/2011

    Merquat™ 2003PR PolymerMerquat™ 550 PolymerSensomer™ CT Polymers

    A Full Range of Solutions for Today's Discerning Formulator

  • Cationic Cassia Polymers as Efficient Naturally Derived Polymers for Providing Enhanced Deposition from Shampoo Systems

    Cationic Cassia Polymers as Efficient Naturally Derived Polymers for Providing Enhanced Deposition from Shampoo Systems

    C. Lepilleur, J. Mullay, W. Li, and D. Krzysik

    IFSCC 2011 - Bangkok, November 2011

    Sensomer™ CT-250 PolymerSensomer™ CT-400 Polymer

    New opportunities to improve hair conditioning are emerging due to the increased frequency of hair damage resulting from various grooming techniques, demographic changes in age and ethnicity and affluence in both developed and emerging markets. Silicones are commonly used in conditioning shampoos to improve wet and dry combing, hair feel, shine and manageability. Cationic conditioning polymers are used in combination with silicone in high performance formulations to enhance hair conditioning. One of the primary functions of cationic conditioning polymers is to increase the amount of silicone deposited on hair during the shampoo cycle via the formation of coacervates. Coacervates formed during shampoo dilution can effectively deposit silicone and otheringredients onto hair fibers.

  • Predictive Modeling Poster

    POSTER: Predictive Modeling of a Rheology Modifier for Low pH Surfactant Systems

    Yi Yang, Ann Giovannitti-Jensen, Qunhua Xu, Krishnan Tamareselvy, Christina He

    IFSCC 2011 - Bangkok, 10/1/2011

    Carbopol® Aqua SF-2 Polymer

    Laureth Sulfate (SLES) and Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) has been studied via a design of experiments (DOE). Statistical models have been established to predict performance for a given formula or to offer a starting formula to achieve desired performance. A comprehensive understanding of the formulation behavior has been developed. Increasing polymer concentration raises formulation clarity, viscosity and yield value and improves flow texture. Adding more surfactant boosts clarity, viscosity and yield value, but does not necessarily improve flow texture. Raising the level of the secondary surfactant, CAPB at a fixed total surfactant concentration, enhances viscosity and yield value, but reduces formulation clarity and worsens the flow texture.

  • Soft Matter

    Nonionic Surfactant-induced Stabilization and Tailorability of Sugar-amphiphile Hydrogels

    Lauren E. Buerkle, Ramiro Galleguillos. Stuart J. Rowan

    Soft Matter, August 2011

    N-Octyl-D-gluconamide (C8-DGlu) is known to form hydrogels; however, as is the case with many low molecular weight gelators, C8-DGlu crystallizes from the gel state within a few hours. Thus, in order for such gelators to find uses, e.g. as viscosity modifiers, potential methods to increase their lifetime stability by significantly delaying or altogether preventing the onset of the crystallization need to be investigated. We show herein the effect of various nonionic surfactants, primarily those from the Laureth-n series, on the lifetime stability and mechanical properties of C8-DGlu gels. In contrast to previous literature work using anionic surfactants, the use of nonionic surfactants allows gels to be formed in a much wider composition range of the two components (gelator and surfactant) yielding the ability to systematically tailor the mechanical properties of the gels across several orders of magnitude.

  • Formulating Towards Fairer Skin

    Formulating Towards Fairer Skin

    M. Ollagnier, B. Moran, and M. Boo

    Skincare Ingredients Online Conference and Expo 2011, June 2011

    Carbopol® Ultrez 20 PolymerNovemer™ EC-1 PolymerPemulen™ TR-1 Polymeric EmulsifierPemulen™ TR-2 Polymeric EmulsifierGlucamate™ SSE-20 EmulsifierSchercemol™ CO EsterSchercemol™ NGDO EsterGlucate™ SS EmulsifierGlucate™ DO Emulsifier

    From Mumbai to Mexico City, from Shanghai to Sao Paulo, skin whitening, in all application forms is a significant trend. In fact, according to Euromonitor, 2010, the global skin lightening market is predicted to reach $10 billion by 2015 driven by new market development in the west and sustained growth in Asia Pacific. Fairer skin in these cultures equates to beauty, power and success. There are many options for formulators to deliver skin whitening systems that delight consumers, and encourage repeat use. However, there are also significant challenges to stabilizing the actives and achieving the right product aesthetics to reach market sensory targets. The purpose of this paper is to share with formulators some concrete and simplified information that will help them achieve their formulating goals.

  • Use of statistical modeling to predict the effect of formulation composition on coacervation

    Use of statistical modeling to predict the effect of formulation composition on coacervation

    Carole Lepilleur, John Mully, Carol Kyer, Pam McCalister, Ted Clifford

    Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2011

    Formulation composition has a dramatic infl uence on coacervate formation in conditioning shampoo. The purpose of this study is to correlate the amount of coacervate formation of novel cationic cassia polymers to the corresponding conditioning profi les on European brown hair using silicone deposition, cationic polymer deposition and sensory evaluation. A design of experiments was conducted by varying the levels of three surfactants (sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and cocamidopropyl betaine) in formulations containing cationic cassia polymers of different cationic charge density (1.7 and 3.0m Eq/g). The results show formulation composition dramatically affects physical properties, coacervation, silicone deposition, cationic polymer deposition and hair sensory attributes. Particularly, three parameters are of importance in determining silicone deposition: polymer charge, surfactant (micelle) charge and total amount of surfactant (micelle aspect ratio). Both sensory panel testing and silicone deposition results can be predicted with a high confidence level using statistical models that incorporate these parameters.

  • Cassia-Derivatives

    Cassia Derivatives Improve Hair Conditioning

    D. Krzysik, C. Lepilleur, W. Li ,and A. Park

    Happi Magazine, December, 2010

    Sensomer™ CT-250 PolymerSensomer™ CT-400 Polymer

    Cassia gum is a natural, vegetable-based carbohydrate based on mannose and galactose sugars. A member of the galactomannan family of polysaccharides, Cassia grows wild in tropical zones around the world, such as India. It has been used for more than a thousand years in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine to treat skin ailments, indigestion and pain, and is used today as a gelling agent in pet and human food applications. Polysaccharide derivatives have a long history of use in personal care applications as thickeners, conditioning polymers, deposition aids and film formers. Cationic derivatives of guar gum, another galactomannan, have been successfully used in conditioning shampoos in combination with silicones to impart improved combing and sensory properties. Compared to other polysaccharide derivatives, cationic derivatives of cassia gum offer distinctly different levels of performance and sensory properties in hair care formulations.

  • Novethix L-10 Polymer Poster

    POSTER: Complex Interactions of a Hyper-HASE Polymer with Anionic and Nonionic Surfactants

    Galleguillos, R.; Bastos, L.; Culhuac-Vazquez, M.; Mullee, J.

    IFSCC 2010 - Buenos Aires, 10/1/2010

    Novethix™ L-10 Polymer

    The associative behavior of a new Hyper-HASE polyelectrolyte (INCI: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) in surfactant solutions was studied. Viscosity data indicate that the polymer, which contains a high level of hydrophobic cilia groups, exhibits a unique combination of polyelectrolyte and associative properties. The polymer forms hydrophobic junctions with the surfactant micelles, giving rise to a diversity of polymer-surfactant mesophases. The data indicate that salts such as NaCl or NH4Cl affect the overall structure of the mesophases resulting in 2 to 4 orders of magnitude increase in viscosity with respect to the viscosity of the neat surfactant solutions. Understanding the interplay between the polymer and surfactants is important since the polymer may affect the rheology and performance of personal care cleansing formulations.

  • Complex Interactions of a Hyper-HASE Polymer with Anionic and Nonionic Surfactants

    Complex Interactions of a Hyper-HASE Polymer with Anionic and Nonionic Surfactants

    R. Galleguillos, L. Bastos, M. Culhuac-Vazquez, J. Mullee, and P. Purohit

    IFSCC 2010 - Buenos Aires, September 2010

    Novethix™ L-10 Polymer

    The association of a new Hyper-HASE polyelectrolyte (INCI: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) in water and in aqueous surfactant solutions has been studied. Viscosity data indicates that the Hyper-HASE polyelectrolyte, which contains a relatively high concentration of hydrophobic cilia groups in its backbone, exhibits a unique combination of typical polyelectrolyte and associative properties due to its charged backbone and hydrophobic cilia groups. At pH 7 the polymer exhibits an unusual viscosity response which is the result of the balance of electrostatic repulsive forces and hydrophobic attractive forces. In surfactant solution containing a nonionic, low HLB surfactant, the Hyper-HASE polyelectrolyte exhibits a transient associative behavior which is strongly dependent on surfactant concentration under certain conditions of shear. In particular for the Hyper-HASE association with Laureth-2, steady state viscosity data at low, mid and high shear rate indicates that the polymer forms stable hydrophobic junctions with the surfactant micelles giving rise to the development of an extended polymer-surfactant network.

  • Polymer Composite Principles

    Polymer composite principles applied to hair styling gels

    D. Rafferty, J. Zellia, D. Hasman, and J. Mullay

    Journal of Cosmetic Science, November/December 2008

    Fixate™ Superhold Polymer

    A novel approach is taken to understand the mechanical performance of fixative-treated hair tresses. Polymer composite principles are applied to explain the performance. Examples are given for polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer that show that the choice of neutralizer affects the film properties of anionic acrylic polymers by plasticization or by hardening through ionic (physical) crosslinking. The effect of these changes in the polymer film on the composite properties was determined by mechanical stiffness and high-humidity curl retention testing. It is shown that both adhesion to the hair and polymer cohesion are important in determining fixative polymer performance. The implications of the results for the formulation of fixative systems are discussed.

  • Carbopol-Aqua-CC-polymer

    Carbopol® Aqua CC polymer for Low pH Skin Care Formulations

    D. Krzysik and K. Tamareselvy

    Specialty Chemicals Magazine, March 2007

    Carbopol® Aqua CC Polymer

    Formulators seeking to modify the rheology of their product compositions at low pH, especially emulsions, are limited to choosing between nonionic thickeners (such as nonionic surfactants) and cationic thickeners. the former are uncharged and thus are assumed to be less reactive to cationic components than anionic thickeners, but they tend to inactivate preservatives and may promote microbial growth. To meet the growing demand for thickeners suitable for low pH formulations, we introduce Carbopol® Aqua CC polymer to our Carbopol® polymer family.

  • Carbopol-Aqua-CC-polymer-Premier

    Carbopol® Aqua CC Polymer: The Premier Cationic Compatible Rheology Modifier for Low pH Formulations

    A. Park, J. Shlepr, and K. Tamareselvy

    Cosmetics Science Technology, April 2006

    Carbopol® Aqua CC Polymer

    In many cases, high performance formulations are designed to deliver enhanced conditioning for hair or skin through the use of cationic ingredients, the delivery of actives, or the use of ingredients offering anti-aging benefits at low pH levels. Traditionally, these challenging formulations have limited the choice of rheology modifiers which can be used. Typical anionic thickeners may not be well suited in a low pH or cationic containing environment, and non-ionic options may provide undesirable aesthetics. Now, Carbopol® Aqua CC polymer, the newest member of the Carbopol® polymer family, overcomes these limitations and creates new formulating possibilities. This premier cationic compatible liquid rheology modifier was specially designed for use in low pH personal care applications where low to medium viscosity is desirable. This patent-pending new polymer offers high clarity, a smooth feel and excellent suspension capabilities, properties for which Carbopol® polymers have long been the preferred choice in other applications.

  • More than rheology: multi-functional polymers with superior aesthetics in hair care applications

    More than rheology: multi-functional polymers with superior aesthetics in hair care applications

    J. Shlepr and J. Castner

    Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide, March 2006

    Carbopol® Ultrez 20 PolymerCarbopol® Ultrez 21 PolymerCarbopol® Aqua SF-1 Polymer

    Aesthetic properties are some of the most important features of personal care products. While any shampoo can cleanse the hair, those that look attractive at the point of sale, and are more pleasant to use, are the ones that ultimately win market share. Thus, the need to enhance the sensory experience, beyond focusing solely on product functionality, is a critical challenge facing formulators. This is why, for example, surfactants are not used solely for cleansing, but also to deliver richer, more billowy lather and to minimize the risk of irritation. Similarly, rheology control agents are not used solely for thickening. Today’s rheology modifiers must offer not only the functional aspects of thickening, suspension and stabilization, but must also provide enhanced appearance to the finished product; superior flow and pour properties; a smooth, light, cushiony feel in use and a pleasant after-feel. This article presents three novel technologies designed to exceed expectations for functionality as well as sensory attributes: Acrylates Copolymer, for use in surfactant cleansing systems, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, for use in surfactant-cleansing or aqueous based systems, and Polyacrylate-14, for use primarily in aqueous-based systems.

  • Rheology Modification of Hydrogen Peroxide Based Applications

    Rheology Modification of Hydrogen Peroxide-Based Applications Using Cross-Linked Polyacrylic Acid Polymers

    Julie Schmucker-Castner

    SCC Annual Meeting, December 1997

    A fundamental study of the stability of hydrogen peroxide-based gels, thickened using crosslinked polyacrylic acid polymers, will be presented. Recent systematic experiments will demonstrate that excellent long-term stability of such gels can be achieved. The study evaluates different types of crosslinked polyacrylic acid polymers (as well as an associative acrylic polymer), several commercial sources of hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide concentrations and the effect of pH.